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As we age, our skin becomes thinner. Production of the proteins collagen and elastin undergo changes, leading to wrinkles in the skin. Melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color, becomes unevenly distributed causing freckles and age spots; sweat- and oil-secreting glands in the skin also decrease, leaving the skin dry and thin. Effects of aging on the skin may also be attributed to damage caused by oxygen-free radicals, sun exposure, poor nutrition, high stress levels, environmental pollution, cigarette smoking or alcohol and drug abuse. Based on fundamental skin aging mechanisms, these assays evaluate the capability of a product to fight against skin aging.
Collagen Glycation Inhibition
Collagens are important proteins for the skin, as they are essential for structure and function of the extracellular matrix in the dermis. Thinner and wrinkled skin, the typical signs of normal aging, are the consequence of damaged or reduced collagen. Protein glycation contributes to skin aging as it deteriorates the existing collagen by crosslinking. Accelerated skin aging is especially noticeable in diabetic patients, where glycation is increased because of high serum glucose levels.
UV Free Radicals Quenching Capacity
Skin aging is the result of the addition of intrinsic processes (chronological aging) and extrinsic, or environmental, factors – of which ultraviolet radiation is the most important (actinic aging). UV radiation acts either directly on DNA or through the formation of harmful free radicals, such as singlet oxygen.
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