The Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, guidance documents, and trading standards legislation all affect the labelling of cosmetic products. The main focus is on the ingredients list. We provide a comprehensive range of analytical methods to assist you with claim substantiation, due diligence, labelling and ingredient stability.
Arbutin
Arbutin is a naturally occuring derivative of hydroquinone found in the leaves of cranberry, bearberry, and blueberry shrubs, most types of pears, and many other plants. Arbutin protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals and is a skin whitening agent. Arbutin also inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. Low concentrations have no effect, while high concentrations of about 5% or more can be as irritating as hydroquinone and may potentially result in unexpected hyperpigmentation (darkening).
Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbic acid, known as vitamin C, is a water soluble natural skin care indredient.It helps in the decrease of melanin formation. It also helps in neutralizing the free radicals and other exceedingly reactive molecules created by the sunlight. More importantly, vitamin C is the only antioxidant proven to increase collagen synthesis.
Ascorbyl Dipalmitate
Ascorbyl dipalmitate is a fat-solubile form of vitamin C. When hydrolized, ascorbyl dipalmitate appears to be as bioavailable as ascorbic acid alone. It is used in some topical preparations because it is more stable than aqueous (water-soluble) forms of vitamin C.
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Ascorbyl glucoside has a structure in which the C2-hydroxyl group of L-ascorbic acid is masked with glucose.It has the same functions as L-ascorbic acid: exhibiting high antioxidant activity, acting as a coenzyme for enzymes involved in collagen synthesis (namely prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase), and inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. Ascorbyl glucoside has greater stability than L-ascorbic acid and thereby delivers the effects of vitamin C to the skin for a longer period of time.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
The role of vitamin C in promoting collagen synthesis and its antioxidant properties have promoted its use on the skin. Ascorbyl palmitate is an ester formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid creating a fat-soluble form of vitamin C. Ascorbyl palmitate is frequently used in topical preparations because it is more stable than some aqueous (water-soluble) forms of vitamin C.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Bemotrizinol , also knowns as Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, is an oil soluble chemical which is added to sunscreens to absorb UV rays. It is a broad spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays. Bemotrizinol is highly photostable. and helps prevent photodegradation of other sunscreen actives. Bemotrizinol is not approved by the United States FDA, but is approved in the European Union since the year 2000 and other parts of the world.
Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate
Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, also tradenamed as Mexoryl SO, is a quaternary ammonium compound. In cosmetics and personal care products, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate functions as an ultraviolet light absorber. UV absorbers, like sunscreen agents, have the ability to convert UV radiation into less damaging infrared radiation (heat).
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone functions as an ultraviolet light absorber in cosmetics and personal care products. It has the ability to convert UV radiation into less damaging infrared radiation (heat). Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone is listed in the Cosmetics Directive of the European Union and may be used as a UV filter in cosmetics and personal care products at a maximum concentration of 10%. FDA is evaluating it as a sunscreen single active up to 3 percent.
Bisdisulizole Disodium
Bisdisulizole disodium, also knowns as disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, is a water soluble chemical which is added to sunscreens to absorb UVA rays. it is not approved in the United States by the FDA, but is approved in the European Union since the year 2000 and other parts of the world.
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Drometrizole trisiloxane, also known as Mexoryl XL, is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens. It is a very effective sunscreen for two reasons: one, it is very stable, and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. Mexoryl XL is an oil soluble form that is suitable for water-resistant sunscreen formulations, including those worn on the beach and during vigorous physical exercise.
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Ethylhexyl triazone,with a trade anme as Uvinul T 150, is a high performance UV filter. Only small concentrations are required in cosmetic sun-care preparations, to achieve a high SPF value. IIt has a great photo stability. The polar nature of Uvinul T 150 gives it good affinity to the keratin in the skin, so that formulations in which it is used are particularly waterresistant.Uvinul T 150 is usually dissolved in the oily phase of emulsions.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production, meaning that it prevents skin from making the substance responsible for skin color. In medical literature, hydroquinone is considered the primary topical ingredient for inhibiting melanin production. It has been banned in some countries because of fears of a cancer risk.Hydroquinone can be an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
Kojic Acid
Derived from fungus, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. It is a recent remedy for the treatment of pigment problems and age spots.but it is very unstable. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown and lose its efficacy.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. Like vitamin C, it can act as an inhibitor of melanin formation and also plays a role in collagen formation. Unlike vitamin C, it is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C and is effective in significantly lower concentrations.
Menthyl Anthranilate
Menthyl anthranilate is a sunscreen as as an alternative to oxybenzone. Compared with oxybenzone, it has several advantage. Menthyl anthranilate is miscible with all commonly used cosmetic oils, is easily emulsified within aqueous formulations, is colorless and can be obtained `odor-free.'
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, also known as Eusolex 6300 or Parsol 5000, is an organic camphor derivative that is used in the cosmetic industry for its ability to protect the skin against UV, specifically UV B radiation. It is approved for use in Europe but is not approved for use in the USA by theFDA. It is also approved in Canada and other countries. It's not permitted in Japan.
Bisoctrizole, also known as Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, is a chemical which is added to sunscreens to absorb broad spectrum ultraviolet radiation, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays. Bisoctrizole shows very little photodegradation and has a stabilizing effect on other UV absorbers.
Octocrylene
Octocrylene is an ester formed by the condensation of a diphenylcyanoacrylate with 2-ethylhexanol. It is an oil soluble, water resistant absorber covering UVB and part of UVA range called short UVA. However, it is a relatively weak sunscreen. Used alone it is inadequate for either UVB or UVA protection. But octocrylene is very stable and it both protects and augments other UV absorbers while improving their uniform skin coating.
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is a common sunscreen agent. Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is primarily a UVB protecting agent providing only minimal UVA protection. For complete UVA protection, it must be paired with other UVA sunscreen agent for complete protection.
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor is a polymer and functions as a UV light absorber in cosmetics and personal care products. The European Commission has concluded that Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor as a UV light absorber at a maximum concentration of 6% would not pose a health hazard. FDA has not reviewed Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor as a sunscreen. In US, it can only be used as light absorber in cosmetic products.
Retinoic Acid (RA)
Retinoic acid or all-trans retinoic acid or ATRA is the acid form of vitamin A and so also known as tretinoin. It is most commonly used treatment of acne and also was studied to treat photoaging. Topical tretinoin is also used to treat and reduce the appearance of stretch marks by increasing collagen production in the dermis.
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, also known as Ecamsule or MexorylŽ SX, is a chemical which is added to many sunscreens to filter out UVA rays. It is a benzylidene camphor derivative and has great photostability.
