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The Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, guidance documents, and trading standards legislation all affect the labelling of cosmetic products. The main focus is on the ingredients list. We provide a comprehensive range of analytical methods to assist you with claim substantiation, due diligence, labelling and ingredient stability.

Arbutin

Arbutin is a naturally occuring derivative of hydroquinone found in the leaves of cranberry, bearberry, and blueberry shrubs, most types of pears, and many other plants. Arbutin protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals and is a skin whitening agent. Arbutin also inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. Low concentrations have no effect, while high concentrations of about 5% or more can be as irritating as hydroquinone and may potentially result in unexpected hyperpigmentation (darkening).

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid, known as vitamin C, is a water soluble natural skin care indredient.It helps in the decrease of melanin formation. It also helps in neutralizing the free radicals and other exceedingly reactive molecules created by the sunlight. More importantly, vitamin C is the only antioxidant proven to increase collagen synthesis.

Ascorbyl Dipalmitate

Ascorbyl dipalmitate is a fat-solubile form of vitamin C. When hydrolized, ascorbyl dipalmitate appears to be as bioavailable as ascorbic acid alone. It is used in some topical preparations because it is more stable than aqueous (water-soluble) forms of vitamin C.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl glucoside has a structure in which the C2-hydroxyl group of L-ascorbic acid is masked with glucose.It has the same functions as L-ascorbic acid: exhibiting high antioxidant activity, acting as a coenzyme for enzymes involved in collagen synthesis (namely prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase), and inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. Ascorbyl glucoside has greater stability than L-ascorbic acid and thereby delivers the effects of vitamin C to the skin for a longer period of time.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

The role of vitamin C in promoting collagen synthesis and its antioxidant properties have promoted its use on the skin. Ascorbyl palmitate is an ester formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid creating a fat-soluble form of vitamin C. Ascorbyl palmitate is frequently used in topical preparations because it is more stable than some aqueous (water-soluble) forms of vitamin C.

Kojic Acid

Derived from fungus, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. It is a recent remedy for the treatment of pigment problems and age spots.but it is very unstable. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown and lose its efficacy.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. Like vitamin C, it can act as an inhibitor of melanin formation and also plays a role in collagen formation. Unlike vitamin C, it is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C and is effective in significantly lower concentrations.

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